Rick's Murky Deceiver



This version of the deceiver was created by Rick Sharp of Tight Lines Shore Guide Service for fishing in murky or discolored water. It has a highly visable color scheme, easily seen by striped bass. This fly become an early season favorite of mine.


Hook

Mustad 34007 size #6-6/0 (suggested optional: Mustad 34011, Eagle Claw 254ss or TMC 800S)

Thread

6/0 or 3/0, chartreuse, or clear fine or ultrafine mono tying thread. (Clear mono will “disappear” when cemented allowing the color of the material underneath to show through)

Tail

Four chartreuse dyed grizzley saddle or neck hackles with pearl or gold Krystal Flash and/or pearl or gold Flashabou extending along the sides. Length should be 2 – 2 1/2 shank lengths.

Body

Pearl or gold Bodibraid (also known as Glitter Tape or Ribbon Floss) or pearl or gold mylar tinsel. (If mylar tinsel is used coat it with epoxy or head cement for durability, and let it dry before tying the rest of the fly).

Collar

Chartreuse bucktail over yellow bucktail. (A darker contrasting color bucktail is usually used on the top 1/2 to 1/3 of the collar). The tips of the bucktail should extend to about the halfway point of the hackle tail.

Topping

Peacock Herl, 10 – 12 strands, extending beyond the bucktail but not as far as the ends of the tail feathers.

Eyes

Stick-on prismatic or painted on, either one coated with 5 min epoxy or clear cement.

Throat

Red SLF fibers length, to mid shank. (optional: red calftail, bucktail, Krystal Flash or Flashabou)

Step 1

Place the hook in the vise and attach the thread about 1 eye length behind the eye of the hook and wind the thread rearward to a point just before where the hook starts to bend (the thread should be hanging midway between the point and the barb).

Step 2

Select 4 matching saddle or neck hackles. Strip the barbules from about 1/4 inch of the butt end of the stems. Place the butts on the hook shank at the point where you stopped winding the thread. Secure with enough wraps to cover the butts and cement well Tie in 4 to 8 strands of Krystal Flash or Flashabou (or a combination of both) along both sides of the tail and cement well. Stagger-cut these to various lengths leaving some extend about 1/8 inch beyond the end of the tail.

Step 3

Advance the thread to a point about 2 eye lengths behind the eye. Apply cement to the thread wraps. Attach a 6 to 8 inch piece of Bodibraid with just enough wraps to secure it. While the cement is still wet, wrap it rearward to the tail and forward again to the tie-in point being sure to cover all visible thread wraps. Tie off and trim the excess. Be sure not to crowd the eye of the hook so that you have room to tie in the bucktail collar. (You should leave about one eye length of the shank bare).

Step 4

Turn the hook upside down in the vise. Tie a bunch of yellow bucktail in on the bottom of the hook at the point where the body material ends. The tips should extend to about the halfway point of the tail. Wind the thread forward binding down the butts with enough close wraps to secure. Trim the butts on an angle behind the eye of the hook, cover with thread wraps and cement well. With a bodkin distribute an equal amount of the buckltail on each side of the hook bend. Turn the fly back over in the vise and repeat this process with an equal bunch of chartreuse bucktail on the top if the hook. Now you should have a bucktail collar completely surrounding the hook shank. It should be sparse enough so the body material shows through.

Step 5

Take about 10 to 12 strands of peacock herl and roughly even the tips. Tie them in over the bucktail collar on top of the fly. They should be longer than the bucktail but not as long as the tail.

Step 6

Turn the hook upside down in the vise and attach a small bunch of red SLF fibers or other material of your choice just behind the eye. The fibers should extend to approx the midpoint of the shank. This is to represent gills. . Form a neat cone shaped head, whip finish and cement it. When the cement dries apply stick-on prismatic mylar eyes to the head and coat with 5 min epoxy or head cement. HINT: When using stick-on prismatic mylar eyes crease them in half before applying so they will fit the contour of the head.